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On this day: Dr Samuel Johnson and James Boswell's 1773 visit to Strichen and Banff


By David Porter

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James Boswell. Potrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds 1785.
James Boswell. Potrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds 1785.

Exactly 250 years ago today, on August 25,1773, Dr Samuel Johnson author of the first dictionary of the English language, poet, playwright and essayist along with his travelling companion James Boswell himself a renowned writer, were on their travels around the north-east as part of the tour that would form the basis for his much acclaimed works; A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland (Johnson) and The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, LL.D (Boswell).

Having spent the previous day exploring the Bullers of Buchan, the duo headed out to Strichen to visit the "Druids Temple".

Boswell comments: " We set out about nine. Dr. Johnson was curious to see one of those structures which northern antiquarians call a Druid's temple. I had a recollection of one at Strichen, which I had seen fifteen years ago; so we went four miles out of our road, after passing Old Deer, and went thither. Mr. Fraser, the proprietor, was at home, and shewed it to us. But I had augmented it in my mind; for all that remains is two stones set up on end, with a long one laid upon them, as was usual, and one stone at a little distance from them. That stone was the capital one of the circle which surrounded what now remains. Mr. Fraser was very hospitable. There was a fair at Strichen; and he had several of his neighbours from it at dinner. One of them, Dr. Fraser, who had been in the army, remembered to have seen Dr. Johnson at a lecture on experimental philosophy, at Lichfield. The Doctor recollected being at the lecture; and he was surprised to find here somebody who knew him.

"We got at night to Banff. I sent Joseph on to Duff-house: but Earl Fife was not at home, which I regretted much, as we should have had a very elegant reception from his lordship. We found here but an indifferent inn. Dr. Johnson wrote a long letter to Mrs. Thrale. I wondered to see him write so much so easily. He verified his own doctrine, that 'a man may always write when he will set himself doggedly to it.'

Portrait of Johnson is by Joshua Reynolds, c.1772.
Portrait of Johnson is by Joshua Reynolds, c.1772.

Johnson wrote: "We dined this day at the house of Mr. Frazer of Streichton, who shewed us in his grounds some stones yet standing of a druidical circle, and what I began to think more worthy of notice, some forest trees of full growth.

"At night we came to Bamff, where I remember nothing that particularly claimed my attention. The ancient towns of Scotland have generally an appearance unusual to Englishmen. The houses, whether great or small, are for the most part built of stones. Their ends are now and then next the streets, and the entrance into them is very often by a flight of steps, which reaches up to the second story, the floor which is level with the ground being entered only by stairs descending within the house."

In particular he took umbrage with the windows of the property which he wrote in length about: "The art of joining squares of glass with lead is little used in Scotland, and in some places is totally forgotten. The frames of their windows are all of wood. They are more frugal of their glass than the English, and will often, in houses not otherwise mean, compose a square of two pieces, not joining like cracked glass, but with one edge laid perhaps half an inch over the other. Their windows do not move upon hinges, but are pushed up and drawn down in grooves, yet they are seldom accommodated with weights and pullies. He that would have his window open must hold it with his hand, unless what may be sometimes found among good contrivers, there be a nail which he may stick into a hole, to keep it from falling.

"What cannot be done without some uncommon trouble or particular expedient, will not often be done at all. The incommodiousness of the Scotch windows keeps them very closely shut. The necessity of ventilating human habitations has not yet been found by our northern neighbours; and even in houses well built and elegantly furnished, a stranger may be sometimes forgiven, if he allows himself to wish for fresher air."

Tomorrow: Onwards to Elgin


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