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It's amazing what you can eat in the woods


By Sarah Roger

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THE Huntly Express has recently published articles about foraging with Deveron Projects artist in residence Kawther Luay for The Gathering Table. We decided it was time we had a go at hunting for our own feast to see what is really on our doorstep.

Kawther finds mustard garlic.
Kawther finds mustard garlic.

HE reporter Sarah Roger joined Kawther on a sunny afternoon and was amazed at the delights to be found in the town.

The sun filtered through the leafy canopy overhead as Kawther and I strolled into the woods behind Huntly's secondary school. It was a perfect day for exploring – as demonstrated by a cheeky red squirrel who was scampering up and down a tall tree trunk close by.

Before long, Kawther stopped at a luscious carpet of mustard garlic. She plucked a healthy sprig from its bed and "aggitated it" to release its scent. Straight away I was hit by a delicious garlic smell and we bagged up a few more sprigs. This would form part of a recipe Kawther – artist and chef – had planned for us for later.

The walk was very relaxing and not the fact-filled educational session I had anticipated. Kawther's style is to make you feel like you're out for a walk with a friend who happens to know the names of various weeds and plants and what to do with them.

"I'm still learning lots myself," she admits.

Kawther spotted a slope covered in ground elder, another plant which would be perfect in our meal. We each gathered clumps of the beautiful green specimen...moments before I slid down the slope and came to a thud on my bottom. Laughter rebounded around the trees and our little red squirrel friend probably ran for cover until my giggling subsided.

"The hazards of a forager," said Kawther, reassuring me she has hit the deck many times.

As we walked we nibbled on nettle seeds and I learned how to identify male and female nettle plants based on the seed clusters. They were nutty and apparently loaded with caffeine. If you ever spot me out for an early morning stroll in the woods, you'll know I've run out of coffee!

Our route led us towards the community orchard which is lined by a gorgeous wall of pinky purple rosebay willow herb flowers. We nibbled some petals – my first time eating a flower straight off a wild 'weed'. It didn't have a strong flavour, but Kawther explained its flavour blossoms when the leaves are dried and used for tea.

Rosebay willowherb leaves.
Rosebay willowherb leaves.

Next to the sea of pink was a blanket of cream-coloured flowering plants called meadowsweet and Kawther explained these flowers can be used in custards and teas due to their sweet flavour.

We found a few large bushes of rosehips. I remember these shiny, red spheres being used as target practise weapons in my childhood. Little did I know that a few decades later I'd be picking them to make ketchup.

Our second "foragers hazard" arose in the form of maggot dodging. The little wrigglers were quite comfortable in the rosehip buds so we had to give each one a check over before it made it into our bag.

Sarah Roger picking rosehips.
Sarah Roger picking rosehips.

With a bag laden with fresh pickings, we headed back to the kitchen at Square Deal where Kawther found my honesty amusing. I had been expecting a mushroom and a few leaves to be stir-fried as the end result. I was not expecting to help make a delicious beetroot burger with freshly picked lettuce and home made roasted chips. The beetroot was also local and had been given to the Barter Shop, which is open on a Wednesday and Thursday in The Square from 3-7pm. Wild teas and spice blends made by Kawther are also on the shelves for customers looking to exchange goods.

Beetroot burger and chips.
Beetroot burger and chips.

Our ketchup made from rosehips, crab apples, nasturtium seeds from the garden and ground black pepper was absolutely delicious. I took a jar home and my family were impressed.

Rosehips ready to become ketchup.
Rosehips ready to become ketchup.

Kawther is offering these free foraging walks until around October.

The artist is also taking her exploration of wild produce into health remedies with an upcoming workshop on Wednesday, August 31, as part of Hairst week. The free event will team up with a yoga therapist and take place from 6pm in Square Deal.

Kawther's wild remedies may become part of the Barter Shop stock too.


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